Travelling Responsibly through India


Culture – General

  • Be prepared to be surprised. India is a country of diverse landscapes, languages, customs, religions and cultures and it is home to more than a billion people. What is considered acceptable behaviour in some parts may not be in others. This contrast is probably best observed when you compare the cities to the semi-urban or rural areas.
  • Being sensitive and considerate towards society, customs, and culture gets you very far and is much appreciated by Indians. A flexible approach, relaxed and fun attitude will help you in all situations.
  • Be considerate and ask for permission before entering temples/mosques. Some temples do not allow foreigners to enter all areas. Look for signs. Dress conservatively.
  • Smoking in public places is an offence. You could be fined. Social etiquette doesn’t encourage smoking in front of elders or in religious spaces. Just like back home, bin your butts.
  • Try to use your RIGHT hand when you’re eating or for any exchanges.
  • Many locals do not encounter foreigners often and are fascinated to the point of staring unashamedly. This is merely curiosity and should not be misconstrued as rudeness. Smile and greet them by saying Namaste or Namaskar and you might break the ice.
  • The western concept of personal space and the Indian concept are very different. Imagine a population of over a billion people in a land mass that’s a third the size of Australia.
  • People often ask a lot of personal questions. Don’t feel offended by the curiosity, use the opportunity to interact with the locals and learn more about their culture. You may choose not to answer all questions. In either case, it is best to be always polite.
  • Poverty and begging are realities of everyday Indian life. Giving money to beggars is generally discouraged.

Dressing for India

  • In small towns and villages, Indians dress conservatively. You will feel a lot more comfortable if you are modestly and respectfully dressed. One aspect of conservative dressing is to cover your shoulders and knees whenever possible.
  • It is considered common courtesy to remove your shoes while visiting someone’s home and temples, mosques and even some churches. Some businesses, especially fabric, would also expect you to leave your footwear at the door. Quite a lot of seating in traditional artisans/crafts businesses are at floor level (usually mattresses spread out on the floor). Be prepared to sit in your lotus postures for prolonged durations. Dress appropriately.

Photography

  • Snake charmers and bear and monkey tamers treat the animals cruelly. Don’t encourage them by tipping/photographing them.
  • Try not to have your camera glued to you face to try and get that ‘perfect shot’. Some of the best experiences in India can’t be captured using a camera.
  • As a rule of thumb, ask for permission before taking photographs and respect them if they say no. Often, people don’t like their women and children photographed.
  • Do not photograph people bathing in public, eating, Muslim women in general, certain religious ceremonies, funerals and cremations and military installations or border posts.
  • Conversely, be prepared to be photographed by locals at tourist hot-spots, especially if you’re a woman. Revel in your new-found celebrity status.

Ethical

  • Support locally owned businesses, hotels, restaurants and other services.
  • With a lot of artisans, Gandhi’s ideology of ‘work is worship’ holds true. Respect their workspace, since it’s their temple.
  • Artisans and art and craft business owners will often offer you tea/cold drinks/snacks when you visit them. This is merely a sample of Indian hospitality. Don’t feel obliged to say no or yes. Just remember, some of the best yarns (no pun intended) with artisans and craftsmen are had over endless cups of tea!
  • You cannot buy and export any items that are more than a 100 years old from India, without special permits. The Wildlife Act is also very strict in India; check before you buy anything made of materials derived from wildlife (Products like leather etc. made from domesticated animals are obvious exceptions).
  • Tipping is customary in India. People working in hospitality don’t get paid too well and often tips help them make a living. The general rule of thumb for tipping is 10-15% of your bills in restaurants and small currency to bellhops, porters etc.

Environment

  • Tap water across India is considered unsafe for drinking. However, empty plastic bottles have created rubbish islands in all major oceans and are dumped on the sides of roads all around India. Carry steel water bottles with you. You can use water purification tablets, portable water purifiers and boiling to safely drink tap water. Try and buy as few plastic bottles as possible. Many hotels have 20-litre bottles of purified water or water purification systems that you can use to refill your bottles.

Don’t forget to pack your patience and your sense of humour.

This guide has been compiled by Chandra Sundareswaran, an Indian expat in Melbourne, who has worked in both the craft and the travel industries in India. Banner photos @Kate Wood

Who made it? Draft standards for ethical labelling

The Harris Tweed label was tremendously successful in promoting textile crafts in the Scottish islands. There are parallel moves today in the use of geographical indications. But such labels do not include the names of those who wove the cloth. When would this be appropriate? What happens when the label is a designer brand, such as Prada? While it adds value to the product, how does it serve the longer term interests of the craftsperson?

A common issue in craft-design collaborations concerns the information that is carried with the product, particularly in the accompanying label. Brand development often seeks to minimise acknowledgement of sources in order to bolster market identity. This is sometimes at odds with the developmental aims, which are to promote the skills and culture of those involved in its production.

While most participants in craft development projects agree that the names of those craft skills contribute to the product should be included in the label, it is quite rare to find this. One reason is the absence of any standard that indicates what is a fair practice.

On 21 July, a roundtable of experts in craft, design and law met at RMIT University to develop a set of standards for ethical labelling. These standards provide the initial component of a broader code that aims to facilitate creative collaborations, particularly involving transnational partnerships.

The following draft standards are designed to provoke discussion. Their content will be considered at the mirror event in Delhi on 21 October this year.


Draft Standards for Best Practice in Labelling

  1. Labelling

    1. Consent

Information about the packaging and means of sale of the artefact should be shared between participants in product development.

    1. Attribution

All meaningful contributions to bringing an artefact into existence should receive recognition.

    1. Ingredients

The label should include relevant information about elements involved in production, such as natural materials, cultural traditions and specialist craft skills

    1. Verification

There should be a means of verifying the information on the label.


There are occasional comparisons with the film industry, where the titling convention allows for the acknowledgement of hundreds of persons involved in production, down to the boy who buys the coffee. Obviously, there are limits in the amount of information that can be included in a physical label. However, part of this discussion involves looking at expansive platforms, such as Facebook, that enable not only the transmission of more information, but also dialogue between producers and consumers.

Comments on these standards and labelling practice are welcome here.

Packaging Bollywood for Downunder–The Zaishu story

Zaishu seat / table with Rangoli pattern (left) Indian Sanskrit (right)

Zaishu seat / table with Rangoli pattern (left) Indian Sanskrit (right)

In February 2006 I flew to India from Australia with camera man Mike Crowhurst, production manager Shalu Sood and my father Ken Butler to embark on a one month community art / design project that I had dreamt up the year before. My task was to see if it was possible to generate employment for Indian artists and to keep the cultural traditions of their work alive in the face of India’s rapid modernisation. Hopefully others can learn from my experience and be inspired to do similar projects.

We were hosted by Samparc children’s village in the rural mountains two hours East of Mumbai. Samparc is an organisation that supports children without families by housing them in a village community instead of an institutional orphanage. We set up a temporary art studio in the village hall and invited artists each day to work with us.

Bollywood artist, Balkrishn, with his Zaishu panel

Bollywood artist, Balkrishn, with his Zaishu panel

We invited a team of unemployed sign writers who hand painted beautiful Sanskrit lettering but were now unable to compete with the advance of vinyl cut lettering. We invited the last of the Bollywood artists who hand painted Bollywood posters, mainly now for tourists because digital photography and digital printing had made the artist’s work obsolete. We had two men from the Warli tribe spend several days on a bus to join us and paint scenes of traditional Warli life using their distinctive stick figure technique. We also invited young local women to paint traditional Rangoli patterns in vivid swirls of pastel colours and Mehendi (henna tattoo) patterns that are culturally used for wedding ceremonies. Several days were also spent conducting art workshops with local primary school children and students from the Mumbai art college.

Indian schoolgirls with their floral artwork.

Indian schoolgirls with their floral artwork.

Our task was also to make a documentary about the project and the artists, take quality photographs and generally offer a creative exchange. I was also running my Melbourne based design practice by remote control using intermittent internet connection and given we had a one month window to complete this experiment in an unfamiliar country and culture my main focus was to keep smiling and be mindful of the pressures.

I went into this project with enthusiasm, naivety and a curiosity for the unknown. I knew that whatever happened, good or bad, the project would not be boring. For example the first time a westerner, such as myself, takes a taxi from Mumbai Airport to the city is a valuable lesson in respect for humanity. The road seemed like the aftermath of an explosion with rubble everywhere and as the dust settled the cars had taken over before humans had a chance to get back to their feet. There was no bomb, the road is like this all of the time. Families were living, sleeping and cooking within the rubble, dust and traffic. On a green light the cars, including ours, jostled like dodgem cars for a few seconds before halting again in the gridlock, having moved only a few meters. Our eyes and jaws were wide open in amazement. Having now returned to India a second time and also worked in other countries such as Cambodia, I am less sensitive to such experiences, but will always value the memory of this first Mumbai taxi ride and the impact it had on me.

Warli tribal art depicting a wedding scene.

Warli tribal art depicting a wedding scene.

Young girls with their Rangoli inspired artwork.

Young girls with their Rangoli inspired artwork.

Our first challenge, beyond the traffic, was to purchase the plywood, paints, brushes and groundsheets. One anecdote among many is it took about 3 hours of research and negotiation in a Mumbai paint shop to determine and have mixed the correct traditional pastel colours for the Rangoli artists. After making it clear over this time that we required water based acrylic paint it turned out we got dangerously smelly toxic enamel paint, not suitable for school children to use. The next morning I had to rush to a busy rural paint shop and use hand signals and face expressions to have the correct paints mixed before the town’s power supply cut out at 9.30am everyday. By the time I arrived late to our temporary art studio there were 30-40 artists, college students and primary school children waiting for me. I took some deep breaths and the Zaishu India project began.

The biggest challenge for anyone running a project in an unfamiliar country and culture is the pressure they place on themselves to get the job done. It is important to be mindful that some things won’t go to plan and are out of your control. This helplessness and frustration can easily manifest into unnecessary stress and negative thoughts that maybe you are not up to the task and don’t have the right aptitude or skill level to obtain the outcomes that are required. This is certainly what I felt every day. I questioned my ability to lead the experimental project, be a ‘people person’ in a social environment when I had work to do, negotiate with the artists and Samparc Village to make sure they were happy, collaborate with Mike on the documentary and find the energy required to absorb and process my new surroundings. I was also funding the project with AUD$18,000 of Zaishu’s money so I didn’t want to blow out costs, being mindful we should have at least $18,000 worth of sale able work at the end so we could at least break even.

As the weeks progressed a diverse collection of artwork was taking shape and we fell into a positive and productive rhythm. We got to know the artists and Samparc staff who were also eagerly painting away as it seems everyone in India has a creative side. The village was in a beautiful rural valley and the children were inquisitive and happy to have us there.

The start of a Rangoli pattern.

The start of a Rangoli pattern.

Artist Seema.

Artist Seema.

The artwork was painted onto large plywood panels to be shipped back to Australia and made into a furniture product called a Zaishu. A Zaishu is a flat pack design I created that consists of five laser cut pieces of plywood that easily slot together to create a rigid structure to be used as either a seat or table. This product can be posted to an online customer anywhere in the world inside a post pack envelope within 10 days and is certified with a Good Environmental Choice Australia certificate (GECA). Some of our customers include the Green Building Council, Westfield, Loreal Paris, Mini BMW and ski resorts in Sweden and Japan. The name Zaishu comes from the Japanese word Zaisu, a small seat used in traditional Japanese houses.

Over the course of six years, since 2004, the Zaishu project, operated by myself and fellow designer Helen Punton, worked in 22 countries with over 1,000 different artists and staged 105 exhibitions. At one point we had an exhibition opening some place in the world every three weeks. The first Zaishu project documented the work of Melbourne’s stencil graffiti artists by hosting an art workshop in a Melbourne lane way and an installation at ACCA (Australian Centre for Contemporary Art). Other projects saw us working with the St Vincent de Paul Youth Project, Odyssey House Drug Rehabilitation Art Therapy Unit, Tattoo artists in Berlin, street children in Buenos Aires, tribal artists in Fiji and graphic designers in Amsterdam, just to name a few. All of these projects were self funded and profits from sales supported the communities we worked with. The commercial arm of Zaishu that mass produced screen printed Zaishus in our own factory and distributed them worldwide provided the financial support to run the social community projects. We have now closed the factory and ‘wrapped up’ the Zaishu project to give ourselves time to work in some new directions. Sadly this means that there are no longer any more Zaishu seat / tables available. The Zaishu website can be found at www.zaishu.com.

The India project was one of Zaishu’s first international workshops and was a natural progression for us to record the visual information of a culture in line with Zaishu’s four word ethos of ‘Participation, Creativity, Sustainability (social / environmental) and Evolution’. As long as what we did fitted this ethos, we did it and rarely said no to any suggestions or collaborations.

It would have been impossible to run the Zaishu India project without local knowledge helping us on the ground in India. For this reason we teamed up with production manager Shalu Sood from ilink India who specializes in assisting western companies in India. Shalu helped to organize the artists, introduced us to Samparc Children’s Village and provided general support and advice for the project. Shalu’s parents were also very hospitable and helpful to us.

One unforeseen problem that required negotiation was to communicate with the artists and Samparc village that we were not rich westerners speculating to make money by exploiting their talents. The Zaishu website lists Zaishus for sale for AUD$360, a fortune to an unemployed sign writer or tribal artist in India, so it was easy for them to jump to this conclusion. In reality when you include four return international airfares, hotel accommodation for 1 month, materials, international shipping, laser cutting, varnishing and paying Samparc a lump sum for the artist’s food, accommodation and fees we would be lucky to break even if we sold 50 Zaishus for $400 each. As this project was a speculative experiment I didn’t include my time in the expenses but if the project rolled out into a viable production phase all financial inputs would have to be costed into the final price of the product.

Once the finished artwork was shipped to Australia I kept it in storage for 12 months to get some perspective on the project and so Helen and I could figure out the best context to market and sell the Zaishus in. The India Zaishus, unlike our mass produced ones, were all different and hand painted with various skill levels in all sorts of colours and patterns. While this would be appreciated by someone looking for unique art with a story behind it our retail stores would have a problem with the lack of consistency and the fact that the plywood and textural paint did not look like a brand new product. It would also be best if a customer saw the India Zaishu in the flesh before purchasing which meant sales from our website may be problematic as we didn’t want to deal with returns that take up time and money.

For this reason we opted to launch the Indian Zaishus with an exhibition at a vintage furniture store / art gallery in Brisbane called Day On Earth, owned by artist David Bromley. The opening night was a big success with many people attending but we only sold one Zaishu and that was to cameraman Mike’s mother in law. The gallery also took a 40% cut so the likelihood of returning to India to run another project or to tool up into production stage in India was looking slim.

The problem was that Day on Earth wasn’t the right venue for people to understand the Indian Zaishus as being more than a plywood box painted with Indian patterns. To understand your customer’s demographics, how to market to them and the context of how your product is perceived is as important as the product itself. For the people at the launch who did like the Zaishus it does not necessarily mean they automatically want to purchase one and take it home with them. There are a lot of things that I personally like but for some reason or another do not buy.

Thankfully the Powerhouse Design Museum in Sydney did understand the cross cultural and sustainable theme of this art / design project. They invited us to premier a pilot of the documentary along with myself giving a Q&A hosted by design writer Nell Schofield. Many Zaishus were sold, including to the Powerhouse Museum collection who also used parts of the documentary in a permanent display. The uniqueness of the project was also well received by design journals around the world, presenting the project as a positive model for ethical design that uses sustainability and culture as it’s main program.

It did take a further twelve months to sell all of the 50 India Zaishus which meant that two years after we started the project we managed to break even, not including our time and resources used to perform the sales. This is not a good way to run a business. It could be argued that the positive publicity the project received made up for this but a business can not survive and artists in India or anywhere else can not be paid on merely just good publicity. Accountability and responsibility to give safe, respectful and fairly paid employment to the participating artists and craftspeople should be the main priority. Our project did achieve this but given the product was an AUD$400 non essential art product and retailing is currently at a 20 year low, any plans to roll out production in a second stage would have risked becoming a token PR gesture instead of a financially sustainable industry.

On a personal level, some people may choose to go trekking in Nepal, diving in Thailand or visit museums in Europe to add to their sense of happiness and well being in life. My choice this time was to do the Zaishu India project which has fulfilled similar goals. The project in India has given me wonderful insight into Indian culture and equipped me with the tools and experience to continue working in ethical and culturally relevant design.

Schoolgirls standing on a Zaishu with rangoli patterns.

Schoolgirls standing on a Zaishu with rangoli patterns.

As for the artists, one sign writer has opened a coffee shop, the school children are busily studying with the dream to be either an engineer, doctor or business person and tourists commission hand painted Bollywood posters featuring themselves in a fictional Bollywood movie. The world now has 50 colourful Indian Zaishus, hand painted with kindness and happiness in a joint exchange of cultural creativity. We have received emails from delighted Zaishu owners who treasure the cultural richness and originality of their one of a kind Indian Zaishu that often takes pride of place in their homes.

Matthew Butler founded Zaishu with Helen Punton in 2004. He continues to work as a designer and photographer in Asia.

The journey begins

Moe Chiba opening the Visible Hand forum

Moe Chiba opening the Visible Hand forum

Sangam – the Australia India Design Platform was launched in Melbourne on 21 July.  

During the day, RMIT Industrial Design hosted the Ethical Design Laboratory’s workshop into ethical labelling. Experts from around Australia met to develop a set of standards for creative collaborations. Representatives from law and design, alongside leading practitioners, considered best practice for labelling of transnational cultural products. These protocols contribute to the development of a Code of Practice for Creative Collaborations, supported by UNESCO. The results from Melbourne will be published on the website for discussion next month and then presented in Delhi at the mirror event on 21-22 October this year. 

In the evening, a panel considered what it means for an Australian designer to work in India today. The coordinator Kevin Murray opened the session with a reflection on the strength of Australian designers, coming from country whose experience of reconciliation grants a sensitivity to cultural difference. This included included video messages from four designers in India. The panel was led by Moe Chiba, the section head of culture for UNESCO New Delhi, who highlighted the role of designers in sustaining India’s cultural heritage, particularly in the crafts. Local textile designer Sara Thorn defied received wisdom about authenticity and argued for the virtue of artisans working with machines in India. Architect Chris Godsell reflected on his experience in building sports stadiums for the Delhi Commonwealth Games in 2010. While providing a cautionary tale about potential pitfalls, he spoke positively about the energy and capacity of Indian partners. Finally, Soumitri Varadarajan talked about the impact that design can have in India, focusing on the issue of maternal health. Afterwards, the panel was hosted at a network dinner at the City of Melbourne, including leading figures from the Indian community and government. (A recording of the forum is available here).

Overall, the evening generated a positive reflection on the opportunities for Australian designers working in India. But at the same time, there were some important questions posed that will remain challenges for the project:

From the Australian perspective, India has much to offer in terms of rich decorative traditions and expanding market. But what then from an Indian perspective might Australia have to offer in exchange? The answer for this question will unfold at the mirror forum in Delhi later this year.

In terms of developing standards for collaboration, there is much interest in focusing previous discussions towards a set of principles that can build confidence in product development partnerships between designers and craftspersons. The next challenge is to link those standards to the market, so that they can have direct economic benefits for those involved. This a matter for future workshops that will explore models of consumer engagement, particularly with social networks.

The journey began with a buoyant march, but steep mountains loom ahead.

Moe Chiba to speak at forum

Moe Chibe will be joining the upcoming discussion about designers working in India. Moe Chiba has extensive experience working throughout the South Asia region. She heads up the Culture Unit of UNESCO in New Delhi and has been working with the Craft Revival Trust on the second edition of their Designers Meet Artisans publication. She is currently on leave from UNESCO in order to spend more time with grass-roots organisations and learn what’s happening in the field.

Moe Chiba will be part of the forum The Visible Hand: What Made in India Means Today, where she’ll be reflecting on the current state of crafts in India and the potential for collaboration with designers. She’ll be joined by Melbourne designer Sara Thorn, who has been producing textiles handmade in India for the World Weave label. Chris Godsell from Peddle Thorp will have the opportunity to look back to the experience of constructing the main stadium for the Commonwealth Games in Delhi and Soumitri Varadarajan from Industrial Design at RMIT will have the chance to provide a broader historical and cultural perspective.

This forum is the opening event of Sangam – the Australia India Design Platform, which is a three year program of forums, workshops, roundtables, residencies and exchanges. Its aim is to develop an understanding between the contemporary trajectories of Australia and India. In particular, it builds a pathway that enables designers to build ethical and viable partnerships with traditional artisans.

This is also the first event of the Ethical Design Laboratory, which is a newly established research area at RMIT Centre for Design.

Welcome to Sangam – the Australia India Design Platform

Featured

Sangam – the Australia India Design Platform is a three year program of forums, workshops, roundtables, residencies and exchanges. Its aim is to develop pathways for collaboration between designers, craftspersons, artisans and artists in Australia and India. Discussions across India and Australia between 2011 and 2013 will consider where the interests of village and city, tradition and modernity, skill and concept might meet.

This website will host online discussions where you will have the opportunity to contribute to the development of a platform on which creative collaborations might be developed with confidence. Please subscripe to email updates to stay in touch.