Welcome to Sangam – the Australia India Design Platform

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Sangam – the Australia India Design Platform is a three year program of forums, workshops, roundtables, residencies and exchanges. Its aim is to develop pathways for collaboration between designers, craftspersons, artisans and artists in Australia and India. Discussions across India and Australia between 2011 and 2013 will consider where the interests of village and city, tradition and modernity, skill and concept might meet.

This website will host online discussions where you will have the opportunity to contribute to the development of a platform on which creative collaborations might be developed with confidence. Please subscripe to email updates to stay in touch.

Sandra Bowkett–the Company of Potters

Giri Raj with Sandra Bowkett in the Delhi Potter's Village, 2002

Giri Raj with Sandra Bowkett in the Delhi Potter's Village, 2002

In modern times, Australians are more drawn to new technologies than heritage craft traditions. Inevitably though, there are still people who are born with an enduring impulse to make objects of beauty with their hands. Sandra Bowkett is one of those people. Given relative lack of recognition for traditional crafts in her home country, she must look elsewhere for a context that makes sense of her passion. Her path shows how India can provide a way of sustaining Australian craft. Through India, Australians can find the missing link between modernity and ancient traditions.

Sandra Bowkett grew up in Wakool, southern New South Wales, in a family constantly busy with domestic crafts. Her art teacher introduced her to pottery, which she continued studying at Caulfield Tech. But here the path divided. There were two schools of ceramics—the authentic Japanese tradition and the more extrovert Western use of decals. While she became a ceramicist notable for her decorative style, she would retain a sense of function at the true vocation of a potter.

Sandra’s early career involved juggling the need to make a livelihood with the quest to find a cultural context. She started working in a pottery in Healesville, a village on the outskirts of Melbourne, but she couldn’t bear the drudgery of a large scale operation. She preferred the variety of making work on her own. She began travelling in 1978, when she discovered a taste for the ‘arid regions’ in Spain and Morocco.

Faced with the challenge of  making a life as a potter in Australia, she completed a Diploma of Education. Now with teaching to fall back on, she took leave in 1984 to travel Europe and the Middle East. She was entranced particularly by Turkish kilims and carpets. On her return back to Melbourne she replaced teaching with production, finding a studio in Melbourne where she could make pottery.

Mudkas in Rajasthan

Mudkas in Rajasthan

Sandra finally found her ‘home’ in 1988. She’d longed to go to India and the opportunity came up to work on the archaeological site Vijayanagar, in Hampi, Karnataka. Sandra used the trip to explore Rajasthan, where she came across a scene that she was forever after to call home. There in the corner of a yard was a huge pile of spherical class vessels – matkas, used to contain water. For someone used to the Western studio practice, where every work must be painstakingly unique, here was a spectacle of bountiful repetition. From then on, India provided the horizon for Sandra’s ceramic practice.

The next challenge for Sandra was to find a way of engaging with this living tradition. In 2002, through the Kalakar Trust, an opportunity arose to work with a group of women potters at Kumhaargram on the outskirts of Delhi. Now, working in a potter’s village, she felt more at home:

Just walking into that environment…  All the stuff that had been going on in Delhi slipped away and I immediately felt comfortable. It was seeing so much clay around. There were no vehicles and just single storey dwellings. The quietness was quite something.

But not all was as it seemed. Sandra found a role in product development with a group of potters’ wives. Despite good intentions, the whole exercise seemed quite forced. The women were unenthusiastic, cold and more interested in knitting than ceramics.

The first workshop, women painting square plates, 2002

The first workshop, women painting square plates, 2002

Rather than present a pre-fabricated idea, Sandra needed to find a potter who was both skilled and interested in collaboration. Fortunately, going deeper into the village, she was able to discover a potter’s family of great talent and dedication. At the centre was Manohar Lal. While other potters were using winter as a holiday period, Manohar’s compound was still enthusiastically working with clay. She was immediately attracted to him as a self-assured potter with little to prove to anyone else. He looked just the man to represent Indian pottery abroad.

Step by step, Sandra started to construct a path between the two cultures. Sizing up the village, Sandra gave careful consideration to what her role might be. This stage of Sandra’s journey reveals a remarkable trait. While many would blinded by their own passion to the real needs of others, Sandra is able to step back and look carefully at what is actually required. So, she realised that they actually didn’t need her. They were doing well enough on their own. Rather, it was she who needed them. She speculated that there would be others in Australia just like herself, who would benefit greatly from contact with them. If the Indian potters were willing to come along for the ride, then she would endeavour to make it worthwhile for them too.

In 2003, she organised the potters to come out for the Ceramics Triennial in Bendigo, Victoria, where they amazed locals with their handskills and stone wheel. Manohar Lal was accompanied by the master potter Giri Raj Prasad. For Sandra, the best workshop during their stay was at the Institute of Koorie Education at Deakin University. There seemed a natural affinity with indigenous artists here.

Giri Raj Prasad demonstrating on the stone wheel in Bendigo, 2003.
Koorie workshop decorating clay

Koorie workshop decorating clay

Koorie workshop decorating clay

So the traffic between Australia and India started. Sandra was invited back to stay with the potters in 2004. Then they returned to Australia with another workshop that included Koorie artists. Added to this was a two-week workshop at Qudos Gallery in Lorne, where she hoped they would enjoy working with larger gas kilns. At first the potters were horrified at the idea. They weren’t at all interested in being cut off for two weeks without a definite outcome. But they eventually acceded and the residency appeared to go well, with many works made jointly with the gallery owner, Graeme Wilkie.

The next phase of exchange involved sending the Australian ceramics to India. In 2006, Ceramics Victoria organised an exhibition at Gallery Twentyfive hosted by Delhi Blue Pottery Trust, including work made by the Prasads in Australia. Sales were good, though Sandra was surprised at the lavish catering at the reception. This was one more ‘learning experience’ for working in India. ‘You can’t have an opening with wine and cheese. You have to have an event. You have to go with the way they want to do things.’

Mahonar Lal and Giri Raj with students of Broadford High, 2003

Mahonar Lal and Giri Raj with students of Broadford High, 2003

In 2008 Giri Raj Prasad and Manohar Lal returned to Australia. By this stage, Sandra had learnt that it was best to organise back to back workshops. These weren’t the kind of visitors who expected to see the penguins at Phillip Island. ‘Having a day off is of no interest. The concept of a holiday is connected only with religious festivals or weddings.’

Sandra’s engagement developed further when she met someone who shared her commitment to craft, but from the Indian side. With the young craft entrepreneur Minhazz Majumbar, Sandra found a person with whom she could have a more fulsome dialogue. Out of their relationship emerged Crosshatched, the overall concept for craft exchanges between Australia and India. According to Sandra, ‘It was about different threads coming together, but not a rigid structure.’

Thai-Australian ceramicist Vipoo Srivilasa with visiting Indian artisan Pushpa Kumari

Thai-Australian ceramicist Vipoo Srivilasa with visiting Indian artisan Pushpa Kumari

The first event in this new structure was a series of workshops and collaborative exhibitions in Melbourne, 2009. This involved pairings between Indians and Australians who produced joint works of art. Through Minhazz, she was able to broaden the crafts to include scroll painting from the Bengali patachitra tradition. A key to the engagement were workshops in particular new skills. While most activities were popular, printmaking proved a challenge. The Indians found etching difficult and were appalled at the waste of ink. According to Minhazz, the reason for a negative view of printmaking is that it takes away what they value of being an artisan, which is to skilfully copy what has gone before.

Mantu Chitrakar reciting song of Melbourne in Melbourne, 2009.

By the time Sandra next returned to the village in 2009, the South Asia Foundation had become involved with the potters, seeking opportunities for strategic betterment. While their focus is in broader change such as economic development, SAF is keen to support Sandra’s involvement with potters as a means of increasing their skills.

Artists day in Tallarook, painting matkas

New revelations continue through Crosshatched. In 2011, Sandra invited Manohar Lal and Dharmveer to her bush residence in Tallarook, as part of a local public commission to make a public art work. Tallarook Stacks  involved a column of matkas made by the potters and decorated by the local artists. There was also an auction at Northcote Pottery to raise money to help modify their wood-fired kilns, which had attracted the ire of the City of Delhi as a source of pollution. The potters were amazed to see their matkas, given such little value in India, here selling for a minimum of $60.

For Sandra, Indian potters have something quite special to offer Australians. She notes how affected Australians are at seeing the Indian way of working—‘The complete absorption that the potters have in their work, the grace that they do it with, it’s hard to describe’.  By contrast in Australia, ‘We spread ourselves very thinly, whereas they do one thing.  Take the chai wallahs for example, they make their tea with great artistry. It’s a life of repetitive action.’

While repetition is a distinctive element in Indian ceramics, Sandra sees a growing capacity for production of original works. This increasing interest in studio ceramics does not attract her. She is more interested in finding new opportunities for traditional potters, such as coming out to work in countries like Australia on temporary visas. Many NGOs offer product development as a means of sustaining craft – adapting traditional ware to more decorative items that can find a way into middle class homes. But Sandra prefers the honesty of functional ware—‘functional forms have some kind of intrinsic beauty.’

Manohar Lal making a matka in Tallarook, 2011.

The long-term sustainability of Indian pottery is a difficult issue. She doesn’t think they encourage the younger generation to follow their footsteps. Many make a handsome wage going to Dubai to operate rickshaws in the good season. They dream of other careers, such as accountancy. Yet in most cases reality triumphs: they end up helping in the family pottery or pursuing unskilled work elsewhere.

Despite her passionate commitment to ceramic exchange, Sandra is no missionary. She often questions the benefits of her involvement. While through Crosshatched she has created many opportunities for one family in particular, she is worried that this can back-fire in the community. Success for a few can often attract envy and resentment from the many. This sceptical approach has been very important in the development of Sandra’s career, ensuring that she remains open to other people’s experience, not just her own sense of what should be right.

In the end, Sandra returns to the solidarity of potters:

When I first went to India, and people asked me what I do, I would say ‘Potter.’ After some time, someone said I should say ‘Teacher.’ instead. It took me time to realize this was a caste issue. I now say, ‘I am a potter’. By being a potter the people I visit can relate to me in a way that is comfortable. In Australia, people won’t refuse a cup of tea from you because you’re a potter, whereas that could be the case in India.

On one trip I visited a festival with a potter family, when we took chai from a particular vendor I was told that I can have chai here because it’s for potters. Pointing behind us, my friend said ‘and there’s a dharamsala where potters can stay.’ You have a place. I feel privileged to be included in their community.

As a potter, it seems that Sandra feels more at home in India than she does in Australia. But rather than escape to India, she wants to bring some of that ethic back to Australia. For ten years she’s been exploring how that might happen. She is likely to be still working on this for another ten years. Meanwhile, in her own work she has recently eschewed her signature decorative style for something more simplistic. She states that finally the elemental craft of the traditional potters can be felt in her work.

Mudka's go bush - Raul Barua (CEO South Asia Foundation), Sandra Bowkett,  Dharmveer, Anne Ferguson and Manohal Lal in Tallarook, 2011

Mudka's go bush - Raul Barua (CEO South Asia Foundation), Sandra Bowkett, Dharmveer, Anne Ferguson and Manohal Lal in Tallarook, 2011

Sara Thorn in India – how to follow your dream into the real world

Sara Thorn working with weaving studio in India

Sara Thorn working with weaving studio in India

Melbourne artist/textile designer Sara Thorn is a remarkable combination of artistic passion and hard-headed business mind. While she travels to India following her heart, she’s capable of dispelling illusions in recognition of the real world. As a pathfinder, she has learnt to follow her heart, but at the same time keep an eye on the compass.

A creative start

Sara Thorn grew up in a creative hub. Her Spanish mother introduced her to textiles, particularly traditional embroideries. Largely self-taught, Thorn started her first business in 1983 in Melbourne as a independent fashion and textile designer. From the very start, she had a fascination for textile history. Her prints reflected decorative arts history juxtaposed with contemporary images, combining historical motifs such as the Napoleonic bee with robot heads.

Her career quickly took off. After several successful studios and labels in Melbourne, she took up the position of head designer at Stussy Sista, a sister brand to the iconic Stussy brand from California in 1995. She then moved to Europe where she designed textiles for Christian Lacroix in Paris, Michiko Koshino and Scottish tartans for Bella Freud in London in 1997/8. On her return to Australia she became the creative director of the Sydney Fashion Week in 2000.

Throughout her career, Thorn has recognised the importance of research. In 2001, she was awarded a Churchill Fellowship to study jacquard silk weaving at the Lisio Foundation in Italy. After an amazing journey, followed by the touring exhibition Dreams of a Golden Thread, she returned to apply her knowledge. Back in Melbourne, she set up La Boutique Chic in fashionable Brunswick Street, Fitzroy. In 2004, she was the inaugural Curator of Design at Museum Victoria.

Thorn’s passion for sensual expression with historical resonances had taken her to key centres of fashion and design around the world. But it was India that increasingly took Thorn’s interest. Her first trip to India was in 1987, where she spent six weeks travelling alone, discovering the beauty of textiles. She remembers being particularly impressed by the Tibetan brocade weavers in Banaras.

Destiny calls

Sara Thorn in India

Sara Thorn in India

Sara Thorn returned to India in 2001where she had the opportunity to share her knowledge. She attended a symposium on embroidery in Hyderabad and learnt of the great diversity of traditional textiles in India and Asia from the artisans and historians. There she was introduced to a global network of those working with traditional textiles, such as Edric Ong from the World Craft Council – ‘Destiny called. It made feel that this was a path I wanted to pursue’.

She taught a workshop in textiles at the National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad where she was impressed with the seriousness of the students. ‘I’d critique their work and they would come back with five designs that they’d stayed up all night to do. They were a lot more motivated than the students I had taught in Australia and their energy really inspired me.’ She just managed to visit artisans in Bhuj before the tragic earthquake struck and she was just able to get out in time while on campus at NID.

She made some orders from that trip, but there were problems with quality and translation of ideas. From this experience, she learned the importance of extending traditional skills and how to communicate her ideas more effectively to collaborate with artisans

They [the samples] looked cheap even though they had a lot of hand work, they were too similar in appearance to other cheaper Indian products on the market and that was detrimental to their value.. If I used artisanal skills, I needed to be careful that I included my own design, colours, inspiration otherwise it looks as if I’m using someone else’s ideas that already exist, and why would I do that?

Thorn’s engagement with India is underpinned by her commitment to her Tantric yoga path. She believes that this gives her a deeper connection with Indian culture. ‘India for me is not just about artisans and textiles, it’s about spirituality.’

At the same time, she’s aware that her designs can conflict with traditional values:

I love to explore female sexuality in my work, to work with the female silhouette and the power of Goddess imagery. As I live in the West and it is so much less traditional, its easy to get wires crossed. In India People might be comfortable with images of a half-naked Kali with her foot on Shiva, , but perhaps not so interested in embroidering a half-naked, topless female sailor as part of my scarf design. Women from rural areas around Kolkata refused to embroider it. I didn’t expect that reaction. I had no idea. so I said sorry and learnt more about cultural differences, I respect their values.

Thorn continues to pursue her education in Indian culture and is currently studying Sanskrit.

Thorn doesn’t underestimate artisans’ willingness to take on new designs. ‘People working in traditional techniques don’t want to stagnate. They want to extend their ideas and traditions.’ She’s also aware of the problems in committing artisans to new techniques. She was initially interested in commissioning silk brocade sari weavers from Banaras:

What made me hesitant to work with traditional Banaras silk weavers was I didn’t want to compromise a weaver’s already established work. Through some research I became aware that there is a whole complex system of production .Though the weavers are Muslim men, it’s the Hindu middle man who brings the cloth to market. If I wanted to develop a scarf length instead of a traditional sari length, the weavers would need to change the width of their loom. Say, for instance, I don’t want a pallu (pattern) on the end of selvage. I am changing the way they weave. It’s costing them time and money to develop a new idea. Say the scarves bomb, and I can’t go back and revisit the concept. The weavers may have compromised their immediate livelihood by doing my work as it’s not going to be ongoing at this stage – and possibly compromised their connection with the middle person. This has not happened to me, but I’ve heard of it happening to others.

World Weave product designed by Sara Thorn

World Weave product designed by Sara Thorn

Reality bites

In 2004 Thorn returned to India, focussing on the south. She gave a series of design workshops to empower the master handloom weavers across Tamil Nadu and in Kerala to be creative and confident to design their own textiles again. Their skill had been diminished due to only weaving commission designs. The idea was for the actual master hand loom weavers to create designs they could directly sell to Western markets rather than relying on orders from middle men. The workshops focused on explaining how to read trends, creating colour palettes in order to design for the Western market. There seemed a strong need for this information as they had little familiarity with Western lifestyles and what the end use of their work was used for. ‘They were making table mats. One man put up his hand and asked, “Madam, what are these for?”’

During this time, Thorn learnt some key principles in working with Indian artisans:

You need to respect a person’s lifestyle and priorities and give them work and delivery dates that both of you agree are going to work for both of you. You need to take the time to get to know the person/business you are working with and communicate very clearly. You should never assume anything. The India mind works differently to the Western mind. You need to have very long conversations, where you both confirm the same things. And it is very important in my opinion that you need have good technical knowledge and for me it works that I also study, research and have a great interest in traditional Indian textile techniques.

The more questions I ask, the better the result is. Otherwise decisions will be made for you. Which can be great, but it can backfire. If you have money invested in project, it can really go wrong. You need to go in with eyes open and a lot of patience.

Her skill and familiarity with textiles gives Thorn a common base of understanding on which to build relationships with artisans.

Sara Thorn, Orchid-jacquard scarf designs in wool/cotton made in India

Sara Thorn, Orchid-jacquard scarf designs in wool/cotton made in India

Getting down to business

At this time, Thorn decided that it was sometimes better to work with the emerging craft factories in cities centres rather than traditional village artisans. ‘I decided it was no longer appropriate to work with artisans that are connected to their land and ritual and expect them to conform into my time /production zone.’

In 2008, Sara Thorn started the company WorldWeave with architect Piero Gesualdi. She went to India for two and a half months to design and develop the first collection.. The possibilities of textile manufacture were a revelation. She found a scarf manufacturer that makes for Giorgio Armani in Europe and factories offering 6-8 weeks production turnaround produced at the highest quality.

She ended up working with a company that specialised in the traditional ari embroidery stitch. Though the process was machine embroidery, Thorn considered the results equivalent to handmade:

They have antiquated machines that are guided by hand. There is still a person who is guiding machines and interprets the design. I do a lot of faces in my work. Out of ten cushions, each one has a different face. You could argue that a needle is a machine. Whether it’s in your hand or in a machine is a small difference. While I could justify something being hand-embroidered, the price for this work has gone up. I have to produce products at a certain price point. It couldn’t be a super-luxury item, because that’s not able to sell in Australia. It I had it hand-embroidered in Kashmir, it would have taken five months. It would have been farmed out to villages, transported overland and quite unpredictable.

The alternative for a designer like Thorn is to have her concepts realised by manufacture in China. But Thorn prefers to produce in India: ‘I wanted to support Indian business and tradition because it’s a democratic country.’

Thorn is just about to set off to India for a three month trip when she’ll go back down south. She has learnt a lot about the limits of collaboration in India, but her enthusiasm for working there has only increased. ‘There’s nothing about what can be produced out of India which I find dull and boring. There are limitless possibilities.’

Sara Thorn is re-launching her own line of limited edition homewares, jewellery and scarves under her name Sara Thorn and currently working doing design and production consultancy for other companies and currently designing collections of rugs and interior products for WorldWeave..